Sometimes, smaller goyna can serve as inspiration for more eminent jewels and result in stellar ornaments worked around their basic design. The Naksha Makar Mukh Kanbala (shown here on 9th July,201...

Sometimes, smaller goyna can serve as inspiration for more eminent jewels and result in stellar ornaments worked around their basic design. The Naksha Makar Mukh Kanbala (shown here on 9th July,2013) happens to be one such jewel and from it has been created powerhouse necklaces such as Kakoli and Jyotsna-Sumona. This mantasha and single ratan-choor combine is also drawn from that very same earring.

If you look hard, you'll be able to see the whole kanbala within the body of the pin-choor. The flowering vine is thicker as the 'bala' ---- obviously being indulged here ---- is distinctly fubsy, while the corners are all filled in by similar but pierced naksha motifs. In the centre is a pasha that replicates the one on the original goyna and the same stacked roundel of naksha and katai is seen on the ring and on the chain stays at the sides. The ratan-choor extension is completely detachable, making the mantasha a regular one and allowing the ring to be worn independently.

The shape of the pin-choor is unique : the exaggerated 'V'- cut side with a double ball border disrupts the regular and gives the jewel a form that's unapologetically avant-garde while the wire-and-ball top edge is again taken straight from the kanbala. The idea of an ornament of such singularity to be created from some other ornament is in itself audacious. To be able to pull it off with elan and put forth a jewel that, while being design dependent, is of such uncommon character and unorthodox traditionality that it becomes an icon of beauty in the realms of jewellery-making, is nothing short of astonishing. Hats off then to the nameless (by choice) client whose design specification this was, and to the the team of artists, artisans and designers who worked together to see it through.

The most beautiful things on Earth are acknowledged to be of perpetual value and remain abiding witnesses to history. Fine jewellery is very much that, only a lot more personal, and proves without doubt the fruitfulness of close collaboration between enlightened clients and the specialist designer/manufacturer. You'll see the evidence of that in this splendid, familiar-yet-unfamiliar bespoke mantasha that's lovingly handcrafted to the last detail in 22K gold and imparted a reddish Bangla polish to antiquate it, but you could opt for the normal yellow colour as well and allow it to age naturally as lots of nice people ...oops, sorry...things usually do.