Always referred to as the 'Cosmos' Bouti, this particular design of the curved Bengali choor has been a perennial favourite, at least with those with a penchant for pierced naksha-work.

The...

Always referred to as the 'Cosmos' Bouti, this particular design of the curved Bengali choor has been a perennial favourite, at least with those with a penchant for pierced naksha-work.

The half-round central section held between the polished right-angled bezels is the focus of attention and the drama unfolds in a staid manner with eight-petalled flowers (a reason why it might be named Cosmos), half a dozen of them on each bouti, punctuating the leafy vine (which the Cosmos plant is not), also in six equal sections. There's no variation in either flower or foliage throughout the ornament and the repetitive pattern seems boring till enlivened by the cup collets in the middle of each bloom, set as they are, here, with faux firoza and pala. This brings in much needed colour and energy, and the jewel begins to make itself known as a pleasant accessory that may be used with gold bangles between the pair of them or which could bookend a mantasha or pin-choor to good effect. Worn singly, they do not have the carriage or the confidence to accompany sarees of great heritage but would do well with laid-back printed silks or simple, plain weaves. Perhaps a matching pendant (and earrings) might help. Truth is, their popularity stems from the fact that they're light and the naksha motifs are not very illustrious, in both cases just as the Cosmos flower in your garden is, which allows them to be kept on without attracting too much attention while at the same time ensuring they go well with most semi-formal saree-blouse ensembles as a touch of gold that's unremarkable but unmistakably tasteful as well. Still, now when we think of it, they might actually look very nice with full sleeve wool tops in rich colours such as midnight blue, burnt umber, turquoise, black (of course!), and perhaps even a tomato-soup red!

Think what you will of it but get this or one of a similar kind handcrafted for you if you feel the need to have a sober, all-weather jewel of requisite refinement that you can slip on without thought to add some unobtrusive guinea gold to your 'look' for the day. In such a role, the Cosmos Bouti will happily shine.