Rare as it is these days for precious gold handswear to be made in pairs (except shankha-palas), when they are, the effect is spectacular on wearing.This broad choor is a study in disciplined craft...

Rare as it is these days for precious gold handswear to be made in pairs (except shankha-palas), when they are, the effect is spectacular on wearing.This broad choor is a study in disciplined craftsmanship : traditional of form and perfectly symmetrical in its arrangement of motifs — the chain, ball and naksha-work in perfect concert — its perspicuity of design and the light vermilion polish imparted it make it seem at once an ornament of timeless heritage and one that'll remain germane forever in the context of jewellery that quitely transition to heirlooms.

Yet, the goyna has to be meaningful as well, and reflect the wearer-owner's character, or else why bother going bespoke. Made as part of a trousseau of wedding jewels for Anushka of Ahmedabad, the choor does match the set in workmanship but uses detailing unlike that of the other ornaments so that it succeeds just as well as an independent jewel as it does when worn in the parure. Besides Anushka's vivacity, her academic excellence, and her achievement of professional and personal fulfilment at so young an age, does talk of discipline but also of a certain brilliance, determination and courage that should find some place in the jewel, naturally in a symbolic way.

Let's read between the lines : Closely inspect the choor and you'll find, flanking the naksha scroll-work, an unbroken string of Lenjha leaves — an Indian laurel wreath given form — which is in turn bordered by kamal-chains interspersing two unbroken lines of berries. The woven leaf-mala hails Anushka's victories and the bacciferous borders denote fecundity. In the centre, chased silk worms curl lazily among the showy flower clusters of the Lenjha tree cocooning themselves in good time to give us Muga, the wild and wonderful silk of Assam and as well the most valuable of its kind in the world. Remember how it ages into gold, and that's a prayer within this choor for Anushka's wedded life to become brighter, more precious and blissful as it matures.

Handcrafted in pure guinea-gold as a choor of enduring beauty and simple symbolism, Muga does not merely reflect the coruscating virtues of its wearer but also holds within it a heartfelt wish for her continuous well-being.